Every once in a while you stumble into a place that is so… so right.  The people, the food, the feel, the very air you breathe.  It all works so seamlessly and you can’t help but wonder just what took you so long to get there.

After my own fair share of globe trotting, I hit that spot deep in Western Texas in a little mecca called Marfa.  That’s right, the city girl in love with sushi and graffiti-ed warehouse districts found a piece of her soul in the middle of the nowhere.  

Marfa is by no means a new find, in fact it’s been an artistic religious pilgrimage of sorts since the 1970’s and a surprising number of the under 2500 citizens are from farflung cities and states.  The recurring story goes something like this:  ”We trekked to Marfa for an afternoon of sight seeing, called our roommates two weeks later to ask them to sell our stuff and haven’t left in five years”.

Wow.

So here’s the breakdown of a city tucked in the Davis Mountains, occupied by alien orbs of light and hooded by the biggest and boldest sky you have ever seen ever.  Allow me to introduce you to a little place called Marfa (named after a Dostoevsky character in The Brothers Karamazov, no less).

The Marfa Art Scene

Let’s start with what put this place on the international map – it’s all about the art.  

The Chinati Foundation Most first time Marfa visitors make a beeline for the Chinati Foundation – a 340 acre homage to Minimalist installation art.  Founded by New York artist, critic, architect and furniture designer Donald Judd in the 1970s, it’s truly a sight to behold.  Occupying a former military base, the old buildings have been re-designed with enormous windows and filled with some of the starkest and most memorable pieces of modern art you’ll be within fingertip’s reach of.  100 Mill Aluminum Boxes (which is just as it sounds – but 1000x cooler), enormous concrete blocks in endless fields, Dan Flavin fluorescent light installations, John Chamberlain twisted car metal sculptures… it’s all there and more.    

Prada Marfa One of the most haunting / alluring / memorable nighttime roadside stops I have ever made was in front of the Prada Marfa ’store’ about 40 minutes outside of Marfa.  I was driving in to town after a late flight to El Paso, alone on the road for hours in the middle of the black desert.  To my right, a glowing emblem of faraway consumerism beckoned.  It was breathtaking.  And confusing.  And quite photo worthy.

Not actually a functioning storefront, this faux-boutique was built on desolate ranchland by Scandinavian artists Michael Elmgreen and Ingar Dragset.  Certainly a conversation starter, it’s worth a drive by and will stay with you – whether you hated the 2005 Prada line displayed in the sealed up shop or not.

Ballroom Marfa In a town this artsy, Ballroom Marfa is the nonprofit driving a lot of the amazing art shows, film happenings and music gatherings.  Their 6000 square foot space is divine and ever-changing.  An unexpected gem, that fits quite well with the rest of the city’s brilliant surprising sparkle.  I recently joined as a member, as I’ve been so taken with all of the great arts programs they run for local kiddos and international artists alike.

Padres – more than just a local watering hole A Marfa write up wouldn’t be complete without mentioning this fantastic funeral parlor turned awesome bar / dance hall / local hang out spot – oh Padre’s, how awesome you are.  Founded by a Houston rock star (the indomitable David Beebe) and an Episcopal priest (the padre behind Padres), this is a fantastic place to grab a cheap beer, hear some of the coolest bands from all over the world and eat (hugely surprisingly) great food.  Burgers, vintage pinball machines and shuffleboard – everything about this place just hits the spot.

Marfa on film Along with a blossoming annual Marfa Film Festival, this area of Texas is ripe with cinematic history (the James Dean and Elizabeth Taylor film Giant was shot here – as well as quite a few other Western favorites).  If you visit, be sure to check out local cowboy Ty who will fill you in on the juiciest tidbits of Marfa film history, a reliable source considering his upcoming role in the newest Coen brothers film.

Marfa Make Belly Happy

No worries about subsisting on desert sand, rattlesnake and sunshine here.  Marfa’s culinary scene is RIDICULOUSLY good, although you do have to adjust yourself to a much different pace of life.  Meaning, if restaurants feel like being closed one day… they’ll close.  And most of them religiously close before 9pm.  So sucks to be us, fellow late diners.

However, it’s completely worth eating while the sun is still up thanks to the delicious tastes that have found their way here.  Cochineal, a restaurant owned by two NYC transplants, is an eclectic gourmet comfort food-type restaurant.  Best fried chicken I have EVER eaten, glorious made-to-order date pudding, amazing wine selection – this spot is a must-try and a damn fine way to end a long day of exploring Big Bend.

Another must-try is the Foodshark food truck – a local staple for healthy meditarrean food (yes, you read that right) that is exceptional by even the snobbiest of city palates.  Not to be outdone, the Pizza Foundation is a thin crust pizza heaven.  Known for exasperating out-of-towners by running out of pizza and closing the doors of their former gas station pizza haven (gotta’ get there fast!!),   

And if that’s not enough tasty quirk for you, be sure to drop by Marfa’s only coffee shop (serving delicious Big Bend Coffee Roasters beans and Blue Bell ice cream… mmm….) called FRAMA.  The coffee is delicious, only accentuated by their quirky motto:  ’A Cafe at a Laundromat, Why Not?’.  Because nothing goes with laundry better than caffeine and wifi.  Seriously, go there.

Scenery and Marfa Spots to Stay

And last, but certainly not least, Marfa’s scenery really makes it worth the trip period.  Stay up late with blankets and a nice warming beverage and stare out over the desert for the Marfa lights.  Drive over to the Big Bend National Park for hiking, camping and picking up your jaw off the floor at each bend for all the mountain brilliance around you.  Take a trip over to neighboring Alpine for a nice dinner at the flagship Reata Restaurant, do some shopping and spot local art celebrity Hugh Macleod.

When it comes to lodgings, you really have your pick.  Do a quick Google search for ‘Marfa vacation homes’ for a myriad of affordable and beautifully renovated homes and apartments to nod off in.  Or splurge a bit and stay at the classy and historical Hotel Paisano – be adventurous and stay in a converted Airstream trailer or yurt at El Cosmico – or embrace the awesomeness that is the retro Thunderbird Motel. 

It’s all brilliant.  It’s all West Texas.  It’s all Marfa.  Hope to see you there next time.  I’ll be the city girl in the rhinestone cowboy boots.

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